Every time I write something in this column about high fructose corn syrup, I get a large envelope from the Corn Refiners Association with a letter castigating me for dissing HFCS. I also get about three pounds worth of propaganda about the benefits of the stuff, but I still won’t buy in.
Well, there must be something to my and others’ protestations because word came this week that the Corn Refiners Association would now like permission (from the Food and Drug Administration, presumably) to call the goop “corn sugar.”
Hmmm. What shall we make of this? You should know that I’m not raising the flag in victory. You can call it whatever you like, but it’s still the same stuff. Its increasing presence in the foods we buy is more and more disturbing. What the heck is wrong with regular sugar? And why is it in stuff like shrimp cocktail sauce?
Why, actually, is it in anything other than Karo Syrup – dark and light?
I use Karo Syrup in a number of my recipes, but I also use molasses, pure maple syrup (those name brands you may be buying are loaded with HFCS and very little actual maple sap. It’s more than likely artificial flavoring). Back to what I use — real sugar when it’s called for.
It all comes down to one immutable fact: cost. Food manufacturers look at the cost of cane sugar versus HFCS and it’s no contest. Our government has its hands in this, too, because of artificial price supports for sugar and the massive surplus of corn production in this country.
Don’t get me wrong. There are plenty of corn products I love, including cornmeal, corn flour and cornstarch. And I can’t even begin to number the ears of sweet corn I eat every summer.
I have virtually denuded the shelves of my pantry of any bottle or can of whatever if the ingredient list included high fructose corn syrup. You have no idea the consternation this caused me when I discovered that even my beloved Heinz ketchup is loaded with it. The first Henry John Heinz of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania I’m certain is spinning even to this day after the geniuses in his labs sent the order to the factory floor to use high fructose corn syrup instead of sugar, as his original recipe indicated.
That’s why I’m about to give you my recipe for Spicy Tomato Jam. You will notice there isn’t a drop of high fructose corn syrup to be found. What you will find, however, is a piquant and flavorful tomato-based dip that will enhance your French fries, hamburgers or whatever you choose to pair it with.
Kitchen Guy’s Spicy Tomato Jam
3 medium tomatoes
1 small onion
1/3 cup apple jelly
3 Tbsp. Apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp. Fresh tarragon or 1 Tbsp. Dried
1/2 tsp. Red pepper flakes
1/4 tsp. Salt
Peel, seed and chop the tomatoes. Chop the onion to fine dice.
In a medium saucepan bring all of the ingredients to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer and cook, stirring frequently, until thick and syrupy, about 30 to 40 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Makes about a half pint.